Friday 13 November 2015

The mighty mekong and magnificent dolphins

OKratie, a small riverfront town by Mekong looking towards west and offering really nice sunset (apart from the garbage under the wall) was only 7h (in a crowded minivan with 16 and some kids, lots of luggae under your feet, a motorbike and some cargo packed at the back, but hey, we got our personal mini fan to keep us cool) and 2 stops for eating proper breakfastand lunch away (fried noodles and lunch - a variety of soup like stews with all possible things inside which we skipped). 
The goal was clear - see the Irravaddy river dolphins, a rare and highly endangered species that only lives in this part or Mekong river. There is only around 100 more of them swimming and unchanged river in this part gives home to almost half of the existing population so it is easiest to spot them with a boat departing 30 km north of Kratie. 

They were peacefully swiming around us

We decided that sunset time is great to see them and the light will be good to take nice photos, so we went straight there with australian couple which we met in our  guesthouse (double room with tv! for 6$).
After a short ride with lawnmower driven boat which makes A LOT of noice we shut down the engine and went a bit further by muscles of our local driver. A peace without any manmade sound and sun just starting to fall into the ground we were carefully looking and listening to spot sny sign of them. And there they were, comming out to take breath from the top of their odd shaped head in several groups of 3-4 four dolphins. Once or twice they even jumped out a bit and give us a bit of special show:)

Even without seeing them the nature and colors would be worth the trip and as we watched the sunset     I was asking myself if they will still be there on my next visit of Cambodia whpenever that might be. or will relative short time financial interests prevail. I do not opose them, however they are way to often faced to serve the few with majority of locals getting only breadcrumb of the multimilion dolars worth business. Currently there are plans to make several dams for powerplants providing Cambodia (and Laos) with much needed electricity. But will it really help the local comunities where majority of kids only go to school for 4 years and change education when we are barely starting it. I doubt that this few years when they are still kids prepare them to live in the emerging capitalism driven country (but apparently also more than a decade of western style education prepaire us for it either).

Look, Another one there, and there!

Perfect ending of a long day.

Špela was happy to 

After dinner in a nice spanish driven restaurant just next to local market (they offer water bottle refill - huray, we did not have to throw another perfectly fine plastic bottle away) we headed to sleep (watch a bit of TV since we paid for it already) to start a new day and head to island overlooking the Kratie.

A local ferry droped us on the other side of the river where we walked to the real shore (it is start of dry season so ferry stops a bit further on the sand) where we rented simple but perfectly fine bikes for a dollar. An island is a peaceful community oasis where they decided to go on the sustainable tourism with lovely homestays and friendly locals that all greet you with smile waveing their hands and shouting "hello". The kids were playing, cows and buffalos calmly eating the grass and adults peacefully working with a slow pace. They even have a small floating village with around 30 houses/boats.

Cycling

Local floating village. Amazing that these people live and work on water all their life.

Kids having fun riding way too big bicycles.

Ferry to the island.

Kratie market

After a peacefull time on the island we went back on mainland and spend nice sign language conversation with locals, a dinner in local style and sunset over the Mekong.

Goodbye Kratie.

Next destination - Sen monorom with elephants, a bit of jungle (as much as they did not cut it yet) and minority tribes in hills around the Cambodias least inhabitet province. And a bit colder weather! Stay tuned for more:)

Where we stayed: http://www.booking.com/hotel/kh/heng-heng-guest-house-and-restaurant-kratie.html?aid=884625 heng heng guest house with nice rooms but a bit too controling guy at the reception desk:)







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